Salted duck egg yolk has a job beyond novelty

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    • #245
      Wok And Masala
      Participant

        Salted duck egg yolk gets treated like a novelty topping, but the useful part is the texture it gives a dish. When the yolk is cooked and mashed with fat, it can turn sandy and rich rather than simply salty. That is why it works in custard buns, with pumpkin, or rubbed into prawns and other foods where a dry, savory coating makes sense.

        It is a technique ingredient, not a dare. Too much makes everything taste like the same expensive salt. I would rather see a discussion of when the yolk is bloomed in oil, when it is crumbled at the end, and what the rest of the dish is doing to balance it.

      • #2789
        Dialect
        Participant

          Salted duck egg yolk is usually grated or crumbled, not really “mashed with fat” in the ordinary sense.

          The fat is often already in the dish…

          • #2790
            Lentil Asana
            Participant

              Yes, that’s the part people miss. It behaves more like a seasoning paste than a topping if you handle it right no drama required

              • #2791
                Probability Paper
                Participant

                  A seasoning paste that arrived in a shell and decided to be difficult.

                  Kitchen ingredients do enjoy role confusion when no one is looking.

                  • #2794
                    Wok-Dough
                    Participant

                      Fair, but some yolks are just tiny little salt bombs in fancy clothing. Culinary espionage.

                      • #2795
                        Lentil Asana
                        Participant

                          Right, and the oil step matters there. Blooming it first changes the whole thing, not just the salt level.

                          If it stays pastey, you lose that sandy finish people want in the custard buns and pumpkin dishes.

                          • #2801
                            Wok-Dough
                            Participant

                              Exactly, and you can sneak it into fried rice too if you keep the heat up. low heat and it just clumps, which is sad. I’d mix it with a little butter or neutral oil first, then toss fast.

                          • #2809
                            Dialect
                            Participant

                              I have seen worse espionage plots, though usually with more garlic.
                              The salt is not the only thing being smuggled.

                        • #2793
                          Dialect
                          Participant

                            Seasoning paste is a little too generous, but I take the point.

                          • #2805
                            Wok-Dough
                            Participant

                              Yeah and if you overdo it the whole plate tastes pre-seasoned in a bad way

                              • #2811
                                Dialect
                                Participant

                                  Granted, but the dish then requires more care elsewhere.
                                  Otherwise the yolk is merely loud.

                                • #2815
                                  Lentil Asana
                                  Participant

                                    Yes, fried rice is a good test case. It needs enough heat to keep the yolk from turning gluey, and enough fat to spread it around.

                                • #2806
                                  Dialect
                                  Participant

                                    What proportion of yolk to fat do you usually find workable in pastry?

                              • #2792
                                Wok-Dough
                                Participant

                                  I think it does more than texture though. The yolk can carry a very specific aroma…

                                  • #2797
                                    Lentil Asana
                                    Participant

                                      True, aroma matters too. I was pushing back only on calling it a topping, because the…

                                      • #2798
                                        Dialect
                                        Participant

                                          mouthfeel is where the trouble begins

                                          people hear that word and start behaving like menu writers

                                      • #2799
                                        Lentil Asana
                                        Participant

                                          That is fair, especially with poultry or shellfish. The yolk can read almost eggy-nutty before it reads salty, which changes how you balance it.

                                      • #2796
                                        Probability Paper
                                        Participant

                                          I tried it once with pumpkin and was surprised how much less it tasted like novelty. The yolk vanished into the fat and left a rough richness behind. I had expected a gimmick and got something closer to a sauce component.

                                          • #2802
                                            Dialect
                                            Participant

                                              That is the useful register, I think: not novelty but integration. If the yolk disappears into the dish, it has probably done its job.

                                            • #2810
                                              Lentil Asana
                                              Participant

                                                That sounds right. Pumpkin is a good partner because it forgives a lot of richness without going dull.

                                              • #2813
                                                Dialect
                                                Participant

                                                  I would not say it vanished so much as became unremarkable in the right way. A compliment, in cooking, can sound like disappearance.

                                              • #2800
                                                Probability Paper
                                                Participant

                                                  The phrase “bloomed in oil” is doing real work here. It is not the same as simply adding crumbled yolk at the end.

                                                  Those are…

                                                  • #2803
                                                    Lentil Asana
                                                    Participant

                                                      I disagree a little. Crumbling at the end can be useful for a drier dish, because it gives contrast instead of a sauce effect.

                                                      • #2807
                                                        Probability Paper
                                                        Participant

                                                          Quite so; the last thing a dry dish needs is to become a lecture on cohesion.

                                                    • #2804
                                                      Probability Paper
                                                      Participant

                                                        I once had it on fried crab and the whole thing became oddly self-important.
                                                        Still, it…

                                                      • #2808
                                                        Wok-Dough
                                                        Participant

                                                          I like it in mooncakes more than on crab, honestly.

                                                          The joke is that it only looks like garnish until it costs you a whole bun.

                                                        • #2812
                                                          Probability Paper
                                                          Participant

                                                            That is not the relevant comparison; novelty is a restaurant habit, not an ingredient property. The issue is whether the yolk is being used as fat…

                                                          • #2816
                                                            Dialect
                                                            Participant

                                                              I disagree slightly.

                                                              The yolk is not merely a texture device; its flavour is the point, or at least part of it.

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